Sunday, September 28, 2014

Gator Time at St. Mark's National Wildlife Refuge

We had a great time with family both in Jacksonville and Tallahassee. I will share a highlight here of the St. Mark's National Wildlife Refuge through pictures.
Snowy Egrets and Roseate Sandbills


Steve, Brother-in-law Tommy, and Niece Laura at the wildlife refuge

Butterflies

My fave! Dragonflies trying (and failing) to eat the swarm of love bugs!


See the alligator?

How big is that gator?

THAT Gator!

baby gator

another view

Sunday, September 21, 2014

Georgia on my mind

Savannah, Georgia! Beautiful! The original design of this city allowed for plazas (squares) throughout around which neighborhoods were organized. Each plaza has an historical figure as a central focal point. All statues are facing "the enemy". In early times (1700s) this was Spain, then England, then the North. We enjoyed a tour of the city that allowed for an overview of the history. We especially enjoyed our walk along the river. True to our trip so far, we again looked for the "road less traveled". We settled on Pin Point Heritage Museum. This was one of the first Freedmen communities after the civil war and also the only still existing community along the Moon River/Waterway. The community itself was a rice plantation that Sherman settled on African American Union Solders (40 acres and a mule). They settled on the island along the river. Andrew Johnson, President that followed Lincoln, rescinded the land gift. The settlers were told to get out or share crop (a step above, barely, from slavery). They fought instead. They lost but several families stayed and after a hurricane in the 1890s the land was again available for sale to those that stayed. They bought their parcels for 29 dollars. The tour guides were descendants of those Freedmen. They had such pride in their community, which focused around their church. There was a factory on site from 1925 until 1985 that employed many of the community members, mainly women, who were strong and worked hard. They cleaned crabs during crab season and shucked oysters during oyster season. It was a fantastic museum experience, even more authentic because the people running the tours and museum were from those original folk. Clarence Thomas was born here, but that wasn't what struck me. What struck me was the pride in the community and the resolve to keep the community vibrant. 
Another highlight was the Historic Savannah Theatre! It was a two hour venue of music that for my generation took us down memory lane. It was very well done and captured our hearts. All of the music was good but again, what struck me was the rendition of "Georgia, on my mind"...



Promenade along the Savannah River

Kayaking on Moon River, yes THAT Moon River

Sunset at our campsite, Skidaway State Park

Boiling Blue Crab

The pot for boiling blue crab

Art Sculpture, notice the shells underneath. In Pin Point and throughout Savannah, there were roads and buildings made with "Tabby" a mixture of oyster shell, limestone and other ingredients I can't remember!

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Charleston musings

Charleston is a beautiful city that captures the complexity of our history. South Carolina was the first State to secede from the Union. Charleston was under constant siege throughout the Civil War, yet never technically surrendered. Charleston was under daily bombardment for 587 days straight! Longest bombardment of any city in any campaign. There were 109 elite plantation owners that made the decision to secede. I wonder what the common guy on the street felt about seceding? All in favor? Most held land both outside and inside the city. All of their homes were targets during the war. Their city was also a target for reconstruction. I didn't remember or realize? That President Lincoln wanted a smooth transition back into uniting the United States after the war. We all know, though, that he was assassinated. Those that prevailed were those that wanted to punish the South. Charleston went from one of the most affluent cities to one of the poorest. It was not only the Civil War. They suffered several natural disasters as well. Fires, hurricanes (three:  and earthquakes! Yes, earthquakes! 
It is amazing to me that despite everything many of the homes are still held by their original families (descendants thereof). 
As with other great cities we have visited there are historical preservation efforts that have moved to preserve the architecture that tells the whole complexity of our history. I, for one, am very grateful for those efforts. Every home tells a story in this city! 

Once again, we used "Free Tours by Foot" for a historical walking tour of the city. It was pouring down rain, thunder and lightening but our guide persevered and so did we! We also went on a harbor cruise. Both inexpensive and provided a nice overview of the history. 

We also really enjoyed staying on St. James Island at the county park. It was a beautiful campground, close to everything with great biking trails. We did not go kayaking with Bailey as there were signs warning not to feed the alligators, which was enough of a deterrent for me. I don't do Grizzlies and I don't do Alligators! 

We enjoyed some great lowcountry cooking. My favorite was Red's Icehouse on Shem Creek. We were on the waterway and enjoyed watching the dolphin mother/baby pairs frolicking in the water. Try as I might I couldn't get a picture of them. They were very entertaining though and heartwarming to watch the pairs come out of the water in tandem. 
Favorite food? Besides all the shrimp we had everywhere, I have to say Grouper remains my absolute favorite fish! For Trader Joe fans, we also had a great recommendation for cooking fish, a spice - 21 seasoning salute. We are trying it on some flounder;) 

82 Queen, in the heart of downtown historical Charleston. We had our own private dining room! Several little dining rooms and an outside garden area make up this restaurant. 

Again, we liked seeing "off the beaten path" places. This was a fish market in a neighborhood on Mt. Pleasant. Just great, run by a young girl who loved her job and recommended how to cook the flounder. 

Fort Sumter. Flags flown are The American Flag, The Confederate Flag, the Flag of South Carolina, and the American Flags before and after the Civil War. 

This partially answers my ongoing perplexing question about Jefferson. How could the man who wrote "All men are created equal..." be the man who held 600 slaves across his lifetime and over 100 at the time of his death? Perhaps because although he saw the evil in the system, he saw the "need for self-preservation". He called it the two sided scale: Justice on the one hand, self-preservation on the other. He chose self-preservation... Indeed, he has mortgaged the value of his slaves to remodel/enhance Montecello. All were sold at auction to settle his estate, save for the handful (five more or less) he freed. Again, our forefathers were complex, multidimensional figures. It is interesting to note that Washington did free his slaves. I wonder what kinds of conversations they had around the issue? 

Throughout James Island Campground there were swings to stop and enjoy the moment. I found them inviting and charming. 

Ha! Laundry facilities, Southern hospitality style!

Septima Clark. Parents were slaves, she helped frame the civil rights movement. 



Thursday, September 11, 2014

Montecello highlights the complexities of Thomas Jefferson and his conscience

Montecello:
Captures the genius of Thomas Jefferson in its design and the complexity of his personality.
The house itself is a marvel of architecture. Attention is paid to the foyer, how the rooms are organized, the alcove beds and the "dome" which was built just to say 'I built this and it is the only one in the US"
There are french influences throughout due to his time as an ambassador to France. There are French strarecases to save use of physical space but then there is the Dome room that serves no purpose other than to say it was built. One example of the complexities of this man.
He was a meticulous record keeper, a botanist, a scientist. He had two acres of vegetable gardens that fed his family of 14 and the enumerable guests that visited. He was always importing and trying new plants on his extensive land holdings (5000 acres). He thought that horticulture was a way to support our young country, that it was the duty of the citizens to endeavor to bring horticulture up to modern times. To that end, he was always trying new plants, seedlings. He thought that plants fed us, provided us with medicine, beauty and was a social change agent!
He was always struggling with "the evil and depravity of slavery" at the same time as being a slaveholder of up to 200 slaves at any one time. He thought at one time that slavery should be abolished but realized the more comfortable position (for him and his fellow slaveholders) that the institution of slavery should be improved rather than abolished. I.e. decent treatment, etc. He called everyone who lived on his property his family, including the slaves. He referred to his "inside family" and his "outside family"
The Hemings family, from which Sally - his mistress, was a member, and the Fosset family were favored. He had six children with Sally who were born into slavery. Four of which survived to adulthood. Under Virginia law, they were considered white. Yet under the same law, (as Jefferson interpreted it), because they were born to a slave mother they were slaves. The way the laws were written, your mother determined your status.
Two of his children were allowed to "run away" and went on to live as white members of society. His other children were freed as was Sally. In all, he only freed a handful of his slaves, all from these two families.
Of particular note, is Joe Fosset. He freed him in his will, but not his family. Joe was an accomplished blacksmith who managed to buy his wife and some of his children. He watched them all sold on the auction to settle Jefferson's Estate. At the time of Jefferson's death, he was deeply in debt and selling his slaves and personal artifacts was the only means to settle his debt. So, families were torn asunder after having had their families units protected throughout Jefferson's life.
Hence, the anomaly.
Here was the man who was the writer of the Declaration of Independence, who espoused public education for an informed citizenry. Who had an extensive library, (6800 books) donated to start the Library of Congress. Who had vision, was a scientist, educated, educated his children and grandchildren. YET... there is this slavery conundrum.
To be honest, I am conflicted and don't quite know what to make of it. I know he did struggle with it, and managed to come to peace with it by assuaging his conscience. We will never know how successful that was for him.
I admire him and am also struggling with this contradiction in who he was, Statesman, Man of his time, Plantation/Slave holder. ???
Example of a slave cabin

Vegetable garden

Flower gardens, plants from Jefferson were denoted with "TJ" . 

Montecello

Arbor in vegetable garden

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Enduring Understandings: Touring Washington DC by Metro

John and Jackie's home in Georgetown, while he was Senator
Our time in Washington DC provided for profound understandings of our country.
Georgetown provided for a walk through the architecture of the city but at the same time captured key moments. I.e. one of the early homes of John and Jackie Kennedy when he was a Senator. In this house, he wrote "Profiles of Courage". I realized that I so admired him as a President, yet acknowledged his shortcomings as a man. 
The same is true for Thomas Jefferson. He is probably my favorite Statesman. That is with full realization that he had a whole second (slave) family. In his case, his contributions to this country, for me, were stronger than my misgivings about his personal failings as a man. I certainly am not condoning his being a slave owner, having a black mistress that happened to be his first wife's sister with whom he had a whole second family.  Yet, I think about how much he loved his first wife who died due to the rigors of childbirth. Did he love her sister and would he have married her if the times had allowed? We don't know, we will never know. He struggled with this, yet still...

What I do know is that he believed in the power of education. He said that a democracy needs an educated citizenry. He believed in the power of books! Reading! He contributed 6,800 books to the Library of Congress. The Library of Congress left us speechless. Truly speechless. The building was dedicated in 1897, it is truly a work of art that I can not even begin to describe here. Thomas Jefferson's library is housed here. There are several original writings/maps/books that make up who we are as a nation. ORIGINAL WORKS THAT ANY ONE OF US COULD HOLD IN OUR OWN TWO HANDS! Any citizen can get a library card to this library, make an appointment and then reserve a desk to peruse any of the great works in this library. I can not even imagine what it would be like to hold a book of Jefferson's with his own writings in the margins. OR the Gutenberg Bible, produced in the mid 1450s. The Gutenberg Bible is the first book printed with movable metal type in Europe. AND the ink he used candled black ink, harvested off of glass is still jet black and readable. Beyond belief. 
There are original maps as well. 

Another profound experience was going to U street. This was an African American Neighborhood in answer to segregation laws of the day. Howard University is here. Langston Hughes penned his prose here. Duke Ellington made his music here. There is a monument to the 250,000 African Americans who fought during the civil war for their freedom. It was a place of self-realization and resilience. 

We walked, walked and walked the streets of Washington DC. We walked where our founding fathers walked, where freed men walked, where Martin Luther King delivered his "I Have a Dream" speech. 
We did the twilight tour, saw the memorials and felt reverent. Not only for the men represented but for a nation who realized the importance of honoring our history. 
We ate where Presidents conferenced with members of congress. 
We had lunch with one of my former students who is now a change agent in her own right. 

We did all of this via Metro by the way. Washington DC is very well organized. We were able to navigate the whole area via Metro. We also used DC by Foot, a great tour service www.freetoursbyfoot.com/washington-dc-tours/
There is no need to pay for expensive commercial tours. You can do the city on your own. 
For those of you traveling by RV. I strongly recommend staying at Cherry Hill RV Park. It is the best. 
Next up? Montecello. 




Booth at Marvin's Tavern where John proposed to Jackie
The Capitol
Cobblestone Streets in Alexandria
Georgetown University






Jefferson speaks directly to the NEED for Government to change as we grow as a nation. 

All around the Memorial to Dr. Martin Luther King, they captured his words. Inspiring, 

U Street. Ben's Chili Bowl since the early 1930s (I think) Still owned by the family.


Library of Congress! AMAZING!

Minerva Mosaic, Library of Congress

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Happy Trails through Boston and New York

Our tours of Boston and New York were (insert appropriate adjective here, because I am out of them). 
In Boston, we toured by one of our favorite choices, walking tours. We chose a Historical Society centered in the heart of Boston at the Boston Commons. The young woman who was our tour guide captured what I love seeing in teachers actually. She was passionate about what she was "teaching". She shared with us many intimate stories that captured real experiences in extraordinary times. Her character she represented, for example, was a playwright who wrote plays about women suffrage (not a favorite topic of the day, but how visionary!). We went through all of historic Boston with her. A highpoint was the graveyard in which Paul Revere and Patrick Henry were buried to name two. It was just amazing to be in a city where those early founders were willing to risk everything to bring about our country. Had they failed they would have been tried and executed as traitors, not only affecting themselves but their families. Amazing, truly. 
On to New York! We chose an RV campground that allowed for easy access to the city. Liberty Harbor RV Park. The Park was nothing to write home about, so won't describe it here:) what it did have going for it was incredible access to the city! A short ferry trip put us right at the heart of World Trade Center, which was in the Battery Park Section of Lower Manhatten. We were very impressed with this area, maybe in part because of its easy access! That said, this is where we went on an incredible bike ride along the Hudson River Park ( miles of bike and pedestrian paths) We rode this trail along the waterfront until we literally could not ride any further. We turned around and came back. As is our habit, when we got hungry we turned to "OK, Google now" we needed a restaurant that would accept Bailey, our dog. We ended up walking up several blocks to 8th Avenue on which we found "Pounds and Ounces". Good food and good beer. This actually captured many of our experiences. We didn't really focus on the "have to see tourist attractions". Rather we went for the experience and just let our feet carry us where they would. We explored neighborhoods.

Another huge find was that our first day, when looking for a Bailey friendly experience we found Z leisure and travel, Art and Susan Zuckerman. They have a radio show every Monday. They do tours all over New York, they teach classes as adjunct faculty. They were open when I called and took us on a private tour of the city...because they liked us because we were "dog people". Six hours, 100 dollars. Amazing. They were full of information. Took us to Brooklyn Promenade and again all kinds of places that no one else would know about. 

Finally we went to the Theatre. We took the subway to downtown New York to go to dinner at Cara Mia's, a fantastic neighborhood Italian restaurant that offered personalized dishes. Steve had clam/fish linguini. I had sea bass with grilled vegetables. We then went to Eugene Oneill theatre to see "Book of Mormon" an irreverent musical that is sure to offend and entertain everyone. 

On to Washington, DC! 

Historical tour in Boston New York

Brooklyn Promenade with our tour guides and their two golden retrievers

Lunch with our tour guides at "The Tavern" in Gramercy Neighborhood. O Henry wrote here.


Central Park

Central Park

We went on the New York Water Taxi that allowed for awesome close up views of Lady Liberty. 
A mural created by school children. This was a centerpiece, a poem written from a frame of reference of the Statue of Liberty. Captured everything.

Our closing night