Eating and walking our way through New Orleans! What an historic, beautiful city!

Jackson Square

French Market Cafe with great Jazz

Tribute/dedication to the tomb of the unknown slave at St. Augustine's

Laura's Plantation, a Creole Plantation. 

Slave Quarters at Laura's plantation, still occupied by descendants of slaves that still worked the lands in 1977!! 16 by 16 cabin! Yes, 1977!!! They told us that no one leaves that community. Everyone in the community traces its roots back to the plantations. Amazing! 

Café de Monde! Think beignettes. 

The music neighborhood, rebuilt through a focused effort to bring the culture of music back to NOLA after Katrina. This house is always decorated, but especially so for Halloween as is much of the city right now. 

Dinner with friends at Galvez, a Spanish restaurant on the Mississippi with wide open verandas/windows

Bamboulas. FABULOUS! Great Jazz!!!

A restaurant on a corner of Jackson Square. 

Hard to see, but captures some of the vibrancy of Jackson Square. 

New Orleans is an experience, and not what you might think. Sure, there is Bourbon street that we walked down one night just to have the experience. That said, New Orleans should not be defined by "party town". That truly is not the culture (one could say it is the tourist culture but not New Orleans). I reconnected with my Catholic roots once again, because that is one of the foundational cornerstones of the city. New Orleans was originally settled in the early 1700s as a French Colony. Robert Cavalier de la Salle, explored the Mississippi from Canada to the Gulf Coast and claimed all lands touching the river for France and named it after King Louis, hence Louisiana. 

The city itself was pretty perfectly situated as a port city and as a way to protect Louisiana lands from intruders, mainly the English. New Orleans changed hands, held for forty years by the Spanish who found the people ungovernable:) they had a much looser definition of being a Catholic than the Spanish had, who saw their love of Carnavale, etc., too much. They tried to restrict those who would not be restricted. King Louis had given the colony to Spain, but it ended back under French control, eventually all of that whole track of land came under American control in 1803 through the Louisiana purchase. The Creole people are the original French colonists, The Cajun came from Acadia (Nova Scotia), the Americans came after the purchase. The French and the Americans DID NOT get along. They tried to build a canal between the groups but had to settle for a broad boulevard, Canal Street. 

It is amazing to see the influences of the French, African and American cultures throughout the city; leading to music, architecture, religious influences unique to New Orleans, all mixed up together. 

A good example would be Saint Augustine Catholic Church in Tremé neighborhood. The neighborhood itself was the Tremé plantation. Many of the descendants of that plantation live there. The church has a 173 year history for which we attended mass on the anniversary. The service itself is uniquely New Orleans, a mix of gospel music from African American roots. The church was founded for Freedmen (Free men (women) of color) , there was a competition for buying the pews between whites when they realized what was happening and the the Freedmen Families bought pews then. The Freedmen bought three rows of pews to every one the Whites bought. The Freedmen also bought pews for the slaves so that they could attend mass.  In Louisiana, the law stated that all slaves would be baptized catholic, could be "severely punished but not tortured" and had to be allowed to attend mass. Interesting, eh? 

So, the end result was Saint Augustine Church was uniquely integrated from its inception. If you ever get to New Orleans this is a wonderful experience, Catholic or not. This church radiates love and validation, I don't know how else to describe it. The music is inspirational and uplifting. They have a tomb for the unknown slave outside that is dedicated to all slaves buried in unmarked cemeteries. 

I would say that the overall sense of the culture one could come away with is diversity and a pride in that diversity. Another experience I would like to highlight is the Katrina exhibit at one of the two museums on Jackson square. This horrific event might seem morbid if it weren't for the strength and character of the New Orleans people coming back together and reclaiming their culture and their history. Awful things happened in Katrina that should never have happened due to the incompetence and bad decisions in building the levies and not learning from prior hurricanes. The city itself was not ready for such a catastrophe and there were all kinds of examples of astonishing lack of coordinated services to downright abuse by those in authority. Yet, at the end of the day, New Orleans reclaimed their city. 

The restaurants are amazing. I thought about listing them all but I don't think there is such a thing as a bad restaurant. There is a wide range of pricing however:) Thank goodness, you can walk and walk and walk which we did. You can walk along the promenade of the Mississippi or just walk endlessly through all of the streets. The architecture will draw you in as will the shopping:) Speaking of shopping, go to the French Market as well. There is so much to see and experience just right there. That is also an historical feature that has always been there since the inception of the colony! 

Also, I highly recommend (again, I know) Free Tours by Foot! Our Australian guide who married a New Orleans musician, was so very knowledgeable with not only the history but great advice on what else to see and do. We followed her advice and were grateful. 

IF you are looking for an authentic nightlife experience, head to Frenchmen Street. The clubs along that street offer great jazz with great vibes. I especially liked Bamboulas. The band was from England, happened through the doors that very day and were hired for the night. They invited the waitress to sing with them and her voice was incredible! AND HER STAGE Presence! She truly was amazing and a prototype of many who hope to make their way in Jazz music. 

One other unique experience we had was witnessing a Jazz Funeral Procession. Literally jazz music is played down the streets with families and friends celebrating their loved one. It truly feels like a celebration and at first I didn't know what it was! I took pictures but declined to post them as it felt disrespectful after I realized what I was witnessing. 

Go to New Orleans for the culture and for the experience. Walk down Bourbon Street but know that it does not in any way define the French Quarter or New Orleans as a whole.